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ARTE NOIR EDITORIAL

DANCING WITH SPIRITS: DIVE INTO BENIN'S VOODOO FESTIVAL

by Guest Writer, Béné Bicaba


When most Americans envision voodoo or similar practices, their minds often drift to the enigmatic allure of New Orleans or Haiti. These places are steeped in witchy intrigue and the unfathomable power of the supernatural. Perhaps it's the haunting presence of those who came before us. Or is it the presence held by the trees and earth, whispering stories of the past? My own personal encounters with faith, magic, and the occult were through my mother, who had a profound affinity for religions rooted in animism. From blood sacrifices to prolonged vigils dedicated to incantations, her practices were a regular part of our lives. Though she never revealed to whom she was praying and what she was praying for, as a mere observer, I learned to respect the sanctity of her beliefs.


Animism is one of humanity's ancient belief systems, with origins dating back to the Paleolithic age. Animistic beliefs are still widespread today among native cultures. In West Africa, animism was the primary belief system before the introduction of Islam and Christianity. According to the Chambers Dictionary of the Unexplained, animism is the belief that every object contains a spirit or soul. It is still practiced today, sometimes in combination with other religions.


Voodoo, one of the world's oldest religions, originated in the kingdom of Dahomey (present-day Benin, West Africa) and is rooted in animism, the belief that everything, animate or inanimate, possesses a spirit. Benin is now a small former French Colony in West Africa. In addition to French, Beninese people speak Fon. Dating back thousands of years, the name 'Voodoo' means 'god,' 'spirit,' or 'power' in the Fon language.


Spectators attend a voodoo ceremony featuring the Zangbétos, "the night hunters", which are straw-covered cones, in Ouidah, Benin, during 2022

voodoo festival. (Photo by Apolline Guillerot-Malick / SOPA Images/Sipa USA)(Sipa via AP Images)


Contrary to Hollywood depictions, Voodoo followers do not worship the undead. Instead, they believe in the power of nature and the natural forces that permeate all things. While many West African nations preserve their traditional religions, Voodoo, often misunderstood due to harmful stereotypes, is a far more complex and nuanced system of beliefs and rituals than its Hollywood portrayal. West African Voodoo is not about dark magic and sticking pins through dolls, but rather a peaceful practice centered on harmony with nature, reverence for the ancestors, and a tranquil connection to the spiritual world.


During the transatlantic slave trade, millions of West Africans were forcibly transported to the Americas, carrying with them rich and complex spiritual beliefs, including Voodoo. As these enslaved people endured the horrors of this forced migration and subsequent enslavement, they found ways to preserve and adapt their cultural heritage. In the face of imposed Christianity and the harsh realities of their new lives, these beliefs evolved, giving rise to syncretic religions like Haitian Vodou and Louisiana Voodoo. These unique spiritual traditions blended African cosmologies, rituals, and deities with elements of European Catholicism, reflecting the complex and often traumatic experiences of the enslaved people.


"Contrary to Hollywood depictions, Voodoo followers do not worship the undead. Instead, they believe in the power of nature and the natural forces that permeate all things."


PRESENT-DAY VOODOO IN BENIN

Voodoo, a fundamental aspect of African spirituality, still has deep cultural roots in Benin. Approximately 60% of the Beninese population practices Voodoo, and its influence is evident throughout the broader culture. In 1996, Voodoo was officially recognized as the state religion of Benin. As a testament to its cultural significance, the annual Voodoo Festival was established to celebrate the humanistic values embodied in Voodoo and to reclaim the identity and dignity of Black Africans. The festival takes place every January 10th in Ouidah, a city on the coast of Benin.


The festival is a vibrant array of rituals and celebrations. It begins with the sacrificial slaughter of a goat to honor the spirits, followed by a grand procession to the Door of No Return (a nod to the enslavement of West Africans), captivating dances, libations, symbolic mask-wearing, official speeches, and intimate courtyard festivities. These events attract thousands of tourists and devotees from around the globe, primarily Afro-descendants.


As an attendee of the Voodoo Festival on any January 10th, you are likely to encounter the dynamic interplay of Egungun (spirits of the reborn) and Zangbeto (spirits dedicated to public order); these entities, represented in the form of masks, are both revered and feared. The Egungun mask emerges from the forest in a solemn procession through the village; they leap toward any spectator who dares to approach too closely. It is believed that being touched by an Egun can lead to one's death. So beware!


In contrast, the Zangbeto masks are tall and adorned with colorful straw; these masks symbolize wild, non-human spirits. The mask wearers are members of a secret society and maintain their anonymity. To know their identity would be sacrilegious. The performance of Zangbeto is believed to provide protection against evil spirits and malevolent individuals.


The Voodoo Festival is more than just a colorful spectacle; it offers a glimpse into the depth and complexity of Voodoo itself. For many Beninese people, Voodoo provides a sense of community, belonging, and spiritual guidance. It is a way to honor ancestors, seek protection, and find meaning in life. While the Festival is a major event, and increasingly becoming a tourist attraction, Voodoo is an integral and spiritual part of daily life for many in Benin.


THE BALANCE BETWEEN TOURISM AND TRADITION

The Voodoo Festival, once a sacred gathering of practitioners, has evolved into a significant tourist attraction known as Voodoo Days. While not inherently negative, this transformation raises concerns about the delicate balance between preserving tradition and accommodating tourism demands. On the one hand, the festival offers a unique opportunity to dispel negative stereotypes about Voodoo and educate outsiders, fostering a more nuanced global understanding. 


Additionally, it provides a substantial economic boost to the local community, supporting a region heavily reliant on agriculture. However, the risk lies in the potential for tradition to become merely a spectacle for tourists, trivializing the deep spiritual significance it holds for millions of people. What will become of the Festival in 5, 10, 15 years? Will tradition prevail, or will the tentacles of tourism permeate every aspect of the Festival?


A Zangbeto at a voodoo celebration in Benin. Image courtesy Landtours Ghana


THE HAUNTING CONNECTION BETWEEN AFRO-DESCENDANTS AND BENIN

For those who attend the famed Voodoo Festival, it offers a profound connection to ancestral heritage for Afro-descendants with roots in Benin or the West African region. Serving as a nexus for those seeking to reconnect with their past, scarred by the transatlantic slave trade, Benin and the Voodoo Festival provide a tangible link to the shores from which their ancestors were forcibly taken. This is evidenced by the procession of the Festival through the Door of No Return, thus fostering a sense of community, belonging, identity, and cultural heritage. 

As a rich and complex belief system passed down through generations, Voodoo offers a space to explore beliefs, connect with spiritual leaders, and participate in traditional rituals. Beyond its cultural significance, the festival serves as a reminder of historical injustices that plagued and continue to plague the Black community. It offers a space to honor the memory of enslaved Africans and advocate for justice and equality. 

For many Afro-descendants from the Americas and Caribbean, the Voodoo Festival offers a way to reconnect with their spiritual roots and find meaning in their lives. Despite its deep cultural significance, voodoo has faced challenges in recent decades due to Western religious influences, globalization, and modernization. However, efforts to preserve and promote voodoo are underway, with the Voodoo Festival being a prominent example.


As we navigate an increasingly interconnected world, it's crucial to recognize and celebrate the diverse cultural heritage of our planet. The Voodoo Festival in Benin is a testament to how tradition can be preserved and celebrated, even in the face of challenges. By understanding and appreciating the rich tapestry of cultures that make up our world, we can foster a more inclusive and harmonious future for all.


COMING HOME

If the idea of a voodoo festival sends shivers down your spine, you might want to think again. Benin’s Voodoo Festival is not for the faint of heart. You'll be confronted with powerful emotions, deep-rooted and ugly histories, and the presence of spirits. It's a journey that requires an open mind and a willingness to embrace the unknown.


So, why should you consider attending?

  • Cultural immersion: The voodoo festival offers a unique opportunity to experience Benin's vibrant culture firsthand. You'll witness traditional dances, hear ancient songs, and taste delicious local cuisine.

  • Spiritual awakening: Voodoo is a complex belief system that incorporates elements of animism, ancestor worship, and magic. By attending the festival, you may gain a deeper understanding of spirituality and your own connection to the universe and ancestors.

  • Personal growth: The festival can be a transformative experience. It can challenge your beliefs, expand your horizons, and help you discover new aspects of yourself.


As I reflect on my own experience, I can't help but think of my mother. She was a woman of immense faith and spiritual curiosity. I'm certain she would have loved the Voodoo Festival. In fact, I imagine her leading her own session, her voice filled with passion and wisdom.


If you're intrigued, I encourage you to do your research and start planning your trip. One recommended organization, Landtours Ghana, is currently organizing a series of "Experience Panafest 2025" trips, including one through Ghana, Togo, and Benin, focusing on Voodoo. Remember, this is not a vacation. It's a pilgrimage, a journey of self-discovery. Are you ready to take on the Voodoo Festival?


Check out this video for a quick overview of the festival!





ABOUT THE AUTHOR



Béné Bicaba is a Burkinabè American currently calling the Pacific Northwest home.


Her early teens were marked by a life-altering move from Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso, to Blair, Nebraska. This experience sparked a wanderlust that has taken her across the globe, from the landscapes of Africa, Europe, and Asia to the Americas. She's experienced both mainstream luxury and the need to boil water for a hot shower. She received a master's in health policy, planning, and financing while living in London and then used her knowledge and privilege to support social impact work in West Africa.


She is the founder of Empathy Travels, a collaborative approach to transformative travel.

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