SUPERFINE

by Vivian Phillips

What Black child of the 1950s and 60s doesn’t remember the dress code imposed by parents, especially those from the rural South? A fresh, clean outfit was required just to go shopping or anywhere else where adults would be present. Occasions beyond Sunday service, especially if they involved interaction with White people, demanded that everyone in the family present themselves with a sense of pride and dignity—manifested through carefully considered attire.

Both of my parents were born in the 1920s in the South, a time when the societal landscape was fraught with challenges and systemic injustices. Their journey was shaped by the harsh realities of sharecropping—a grueling existence marked by economic exploitation—and the oppressive Jim Crow laws that enforced racial segregation and discrimination. In their quest for better opportunities and the space to reclaim their dignity, they became part of the Great Migration, a monumental movement that saw over 6 million African Americans relocate from the rural South to urban centers in the North, Midwest, and West over the course of six decades. This migration was not merely a geographical shift; it represented a profound transformation in the pursuit of freedom, equality, and a better life. As Black people evolved their lives from within the direct constraints of oppression, they also evolved their sense of style.

Tailor boys at work, Frances Benjamin Johnston,1899–1900; The Museum of Modern Art, New York.

In my family, the dress code was non-negotiable. Having lived through the dehumanizing prejudices that often relegated Black people to the lowest rungs of society, they understood that their outward appearance was a powerful tool to challenge stereotypes. Dressing well wasn’t just about looking polished—it was about asserting one’s humanity and preserving pride and, in some cases, even safety in a world that frequently sought to undermine both. I didn’t realize it then, but looking back, I understand now how my mother’s decision to make matching mother-daughter outfits was as much about safety as it was about style—a way to connect and protect us through our appearance, signaling to the world that we were worthy of respect and dignity.

Reflecting on the fashion of my parents, aunts, and uncles—freshly pressed suits, ties, and polished shoes; women's hand-tailored suits, seamed cinnamon-colored stockings, gloves, hats, and always matching bags and shoes—I now recognize that they weren’t just dressing for the occasion. As Monica L. Miller, the author of Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, describes it, they embraced a culture of “devotion to aesthetics, approached as a lifestyle.” This ethos resonates with the concept of dandyism, a tradition where style becomes a profound form of self-expression and resistance. The meticulous attention to detail in their attire was not just about personal pride; it was a collective statement that reverberated through generations, asserting that Black individuals could and would define their own identities, irrespective of societal limitations.

André Leon Talley 5th Avenue, Arthur Elgort, 1986; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library.

Black fashion, rooted in dignity, resistance, and pride, has evolved over time. On May 5th, the 77th Met Gala will highlight this ongoing legacy. Originally called the Costume Institute Gala, the event began in 1948 and has since become a momentous occasion for recognizing the power and influence of fashion within cultural narratives. This year’s theme, “Tailored for You,” is being called “the Blackest Met Gala ever,” and its leading host committee reflects an inspiring range of style icons: Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton, A$AP Rocky, Pharrell Williams, and co-chair LeBron James, alongside fashion titan Anna Wintour. The host committee list also includes Black cultural figures whose influence is undeniable—André 3000, Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, Jordan Casteel, Dapper Dan, Doechii, Ayo Edebiri, Edward Enninful, Jeremy O. Harris, Branden Jacobs-Jenkins, Rashid Johnson, Spike Lee, Tonya Lewis Lee, Audra McDonald, Janelle Monáe, Jeremy Pope, Angel Reese, Sha'Carri Richardson, Tyla, Usher, and Kara Walker. These figures represent a remarkable legacy of Black style, each embodying a unique narrative that contributes to the rich tapestry of cultural expression. The inclusion of earlier fashion and style icons representing a generation of barrier breakers like Bethann Hardison, Ruth E. Carter, Beverly Johnson, Iman, and Toukie Smith could add to the power of this moment, but hopefully they and other elders in the game will be in attendance to witness the evolution of a movement they helped shape. Their presence would serve as a bridge connecting the past to the present, honoring the struggles and triumphs that have paved the way for contemporary expressions of Black identity through fashion.

Ensemble, Marvin Desroc, 2019; Courtesy Marvin Desroc. Photo © Tyler Mitchell, 2025.

To appreciate the fullness and history of the style that will sashay across the red carpet on May 5th, a visit to The Met to experience the Costume Institute’s exhibit is definitely worth consideration. The Superfine: Tailoring Black Style exhibit showcases the rich legacy of Black menswear, tracing the evolution of dandy style and how it has shaped Black masculinity. Co-curator and scholar Monica L. Miller provides crucial context for how the history of Black fashion has redefined the boundaries of style, using clothing as a tool for self-expression and resistance against dehumanizing stereotypes. This exploration illuminates how Black men have historically used fashion not only to convey personal style but also to challenge societal norms, pushing back against the limitations imposed upon them by a racially biased society. The exhibit runs May 10, 2025, through October 26, 2025.

The recognition of dandyism at the Met Gala isn’t just about showcasing exquisite fashion; it’s a celebration of Black cultural identity. It’s a reminder that Black fashion has always been more than just clothing—it’s a powerful statement of self-affirmation, resistance, and cultural pride. Black designers and cultural icons continue to use fashion as a platform to redefine beauty and push the boundaries of style, crafting narratives that resonate far beyond the runway and into the hearts and minds of people worldwide.

As we witness this historic moment at the Met Gala, we are reminded of the deep roots of Black fashion. What began as a means of asserting dignity and challenging stereotypes has evolved into a global force, influencing not just the fashion industry but also broader cultural conversations. Today, the Met Gala serves as a testament to how Black style continues to shape the global fashion landscape, influencing trends, breaking down barriers, and asserting that fashion, at its core, is an act of both resistance and celebration. This event encapsulates the journey of Black fashion from the struggles of the past to the vibrant expressions of identity and creativity we see today, reminding us that every stitch carries a story, and every outfit is a declaration of resilience.

Untitled (Christian in Wales Bonner). Photo © Tyler Mitchell 2025